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Post by mvnut on Nov 4, 2010 9:38:35 GMT 1
Its a British carrier lamp. There is a matching pair on a Loyd Carrier in the Local Military museum. the mass produced English/Canadian carriers have similar brackets but the lamps are not like this type.
cheers mvnut
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Post by mvnut on Nov 4, 2010 9:19:28 GMT 1
hi guys,
im starting a ground up resto on a 1938 opel blitz. id like to have a large batch of paint mixed the correct colour. are there any restoration lessons to be aware of when colour matching schwarzgrau??
thanks mvnut
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Post by mvnut on Nov 4, 2010 0:44:20 GMT 1
wanted- opel blitz 1.5ton parts. prefer war time stuff. certainly need wheels. anything considered.
cheers, MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on Nov 4, 2010 0:42:27 GMT 1
hi guys, thanks for all the assistance on the bearing issue. turns out I had a mint original one in a box to look at. the bearing pushes into a rubber sleeve then the sub assembly pushes into the outer housing. very weird.
If there are any loose 1.5ton parts out there id be interested. thanks tony nz
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Post by mvnut on Nov 2, 2010 0:58:46 GMT 1
hi ford flathead,
yes some people have been capitalizing on the lack of info about the French Fords.
We are moving along with the resto of my F198T. Im quite enjoying the project as the truck is in very good condition. I am restoring it to our usual high standard. luckily I have the tool kit and the hardware from the wooden tray.
currently the front king pin assembly is being reconditioned. the V8 Pulled down and last weekend we removed the doubler plates in the chassis ready for blasting. the tyres have been removed from the rims and some paint color matched the French green.
the truck will be a very nice and possibly the earliest example of the F198T. ill finish it similar to the restored one on the first page of this thread. at least on completion it will have a good swap value with some allied vehicles im looking at.
cheers
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Post by mvnut on Oct 15, 2010 5:05:09 GMT 1
Hi Guys, I have several piles of junk that could be made into a early Opel 1.5ton. we are bolting the drive train together but we are missing the correct bearing for the driveshaft hanger that bolts to the chassis behind the gearbox. the postwar parts book does not give a size. can anyone help with a part or a source for the correct bearing?
the housing suggests 64mm OD the shaft 30MM but we are unsure if the width.
cheers MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on Aug 29, 2010 1:06:51 GMT 1
Hi guys,
ill jot down a few collected thoughts here. there is a fantastic series of documents I found on the net. detailed research findings of Fords operations in Europe during WW2. entitled "Ford-Werke's Relationship with Other Ford Facilities in Occupied Europe" it states a few facts including-
"the comparison was made between 35,501 units assembled by Ford Belgium (with US components) for the US army between December 1944 and May 1945, and 11,025 units assembled for the Germans over a 5 year period of occupation"
So it seems the allies didnt just carry on what the German were producing but imported their own components to get US style production up and running in western Europe.
the allies liberated the Poissey plant in August 1944 and the F198T according to the internet sources was produced from Febuary 1945. So there was a period of non activity for 5-6 months. If Poissey had full production facilities and were stamping V3000S sheet metal components they would probably have continued the cologne type cab. what the Americans may have done was take what tooling the French did have from an older production model ( or import the tooling themselves ) and get Poissey producing the 1936 3/4 ton cab. They then split this cab and added 12 inches in the middle to suit the 3 ton chassis. Since the 1936 dash would no longer fit a very simple hand made was installed to span the width.
my truck would appear to be the first style made (and quite unmolested). there are no airvents on the side of the cowl. no holes at the back of the bonnet for the big Ford badge. the blow torch water heater fixings on the rear of the LH front guard are present (as per the wehrmacht einheits guards ) and it has a very low chassis number indicating (based on Belguim production figures) it was made before the end of the war. the headlights are Marchel, the gauges are in French (some stamped 45) and SAF is prominent on most parts.
so if based on body pressing my truck is considered the earliest variant of the F198T and is confirmed as being post liberation production, then all trucks of this type are not German.
the raises all sorts of questions about postwar production. one that comes to mind is why are the Dutch and German post war V3000S trucks almost identical and the French so different. Id say the F198T was quickly slapped together to get the French underway and was considered a short term solution that ended up being producded up to 1947(?).
the chassis tag for these are a very small 60mmx60mm square riveted to the LH drivers seat riser.
FORD SAF Poissey (S&O) Type F198T or F598T etc No. XXXX Moteur XXXX
and later ones have an additional line stating the tonnage
German tags will be much larger to include alot more info including axle loads, year of production, supression code, etc etc and be located in the engine bay
its quite likely that the original paint on a F198T will be a military looking medium to dark green.
MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on May 7, 2009 22:06:37 GMT 1
HI Drew, excellent idea doing a full replacement. it will reduce the time spent on smoothing the exterior panels after putting welds all over the place. maybe you already thought of this but its a good idea to etch prime the insides of all the panels before final assembly. I normally mask out the spot weld areas and prime the panel, remove the masking tape and spray the weld areas with zinc/weld thru primer. A good primer would be a 2pac epoxy etch primer. finding a tintable brand would be good because you could have the colour changed to red oxide. another benefit with most 2pac etch primers- you can put plastic filler on top of the primer so there is a layer of paint between the bog and the steel to reduce the chance of rust forming under the filler. with 2pac paints you need to have adequate safety equipment as some ingredients are poisonous. I having great success with semi gloss 2pac top coats on my restos ( great adhesion and long term protection) but lacquer primer and topcoats may be compatable with 2pac etch primer. check with the supplier. our paint colour match guy has a machine that can checks the amount of gloss on a original sample of german kit and can create a paint mixing code for future reference. when final fitting a sub assembly we FIT THE WHOLE CAR UP with panels and fittings, all lock and latches and assess all gaps and heights of panels before welding. A good visual check is to look at the back of the kubel, sighting along the top of the rear section. it should be parallel to the top horizontal panel above the dash board. its a quick way to find any twist between front and rear sections. best of luck MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on May 4, 2009 2:38:23 GMT 1
hi there Paul, the chassis suggests Dec 1942. we have sanded the body in several places down to bare metal and it has only ever been tan on the outside and grey inside as described. all parts are original. there is evidence of the original light tan being overpainted with a darker Ord tan. no stencils or markings were found. there are pics on the vw166.com forum. also see www.hrs.org.nz and click the vehicle projects page to see the car as was in 1963. what do you reckon? cheers MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on May 2, 2009 13:09:51 GMT 1
hi there V3000S
my kubel body number is in the early 200XX. hours of examination showed that the underside of the dash, engine compartment and inner sills were Grey. the outside of the body and the inside of the doors were a very light tan colour. so that doesnt fit with you research. why would that be??
thanks mvnut
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Post by mvnut on Mar 26, 2009 21:25:09 GMT 1
Hi there, unfortunately the forums are not as dynamic as I would like. I have search everywhere for info. Im not sure but the french were possibly ordered to build the V3000S from Feb 1943 and stop production of their own trucks. I think they had some prewar designs being assembled to that point. The british plant in Holland and the US plant in Belgium seemed to have been "assembly only" factories until the German rearranged machinery to make them full production plants from 1940. because the Cologne cab and the Dutch cab have minor differences, they must have been pressing out the sheetmetal work in Holland. the French cab is quite different. It is possible that they totally retooled the press machines after the factory was liberated in 1944 but I would find that unlikely while the war was still on. If they were producing the cologne style cab why would they not carry on with that shape like other plants post war. the differences dont stop with the cab. the bonnet pressings are different as well. They are smooth above the side airvents. I have seen a few dozen pics of V3000S out of the tens of thousands made. here is a pic from Avranches showing a standard cologne cab and a wide cab V3000S in a ditch. the shadows suggest it has the plain bonnet. it could be a coachbuild cab or the wide french cab. It is certainly wider at the cowl and hinge pillars and also has large headlamps. The ex SBG camo F198T has an undated SAF chassis number and a cargo tray builders tag dated 1944. the truck was originally green and has german instruction tags on the dash. this could date lower chassis numbers up to 1944. It seems authentic. still looking for a definite answer or more photo evidence. can the chassis numbers of the French trucks be noted and forwarded to me? does anyone know the owner of the restored green F198t shown above? cheers MVNUT
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Post by mvnut on Mar 9, 2009 9:48:26 GMT 1
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Post by mvnut on Mar 7, 2009 6:52:24 GMT 1
Opel up and running
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Post by mvnut on Feb 21, 2009 8:26:38 GMT 1
HI Guys,
Yes, I believe the Rosenbauer body to be built around 1950. It in very good condition so it will stay on the truck for now. It can be a look-a-like Ts 1.5.
I want to get some stencils made to put the tyre pressures on the sides of the mudguards. what is tyre pressure stencil for an Opel Blitz??
Also, would it be more correct to put "Ts 1.5" on the doors as seen in one picture or the load data stencil?
can anyone help?
thanks Mvnut
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Post by mvnut on Dec 18, 2008 4:28:45 GMT 1
Hi all, Im hoping the engine for the blitz will be finished in January. all it needs is the sump putting back on and installing.
id like to find a licence plate number from a war time picture of a TS15 fire truck and possibly details of the other markings.
can anyone help?
thanks MVNUT
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